47°19′N 122°35′WGig Harbor, Washington
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No. 01 of 05
Red fruit and saffron over leather, which sounds like too much and somehow behaves. Sweet, but not a dessert: the caramel sits under the rose rather than on top of it. It gets heavier as the evening goes, and closer.
Opening
Bergamot, Strawberry, Peach, Lemon, Raspberry
Heart
Rose, Saffron, Leather, Iris, Jasmine, Ginger
Dry-down
Vanilla, Amber, Caramel, Benzoin, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Patchouli, White Musk, Cedarwood
No. 02 of 05
This is a vanilla first and last. Citrus and clove pass through early, but what stays is bourbon vanilla with tonka and wood behind it, dark rather than sweet. It sits on skin for hours and never thins out.
Opening
Lemon, Orange Peel
Heart
Jasmine, Carnation, Lily of the Valley, Pear Blossom, Cinnamon, Clove
Dry-down
Bourbon Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Amber, Sandalwood, Benzoin, White Musk, Oakmoss
No. 03 of 05
A garden above the water in late spring, an hour after the rain stops. Lemon and green apple first, then the white flowers come up through it, with rhubarb keeping them from turning sweet. It warms as it goes and ends closer to skin than to the garden.
Opening
Lemon, Ginger, Green Apple, Sea Salt
Heart
Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Magnolia, Rhubarb, Lavender, Green Leaf
Dry-down
White Musk, Ambergris, Amber, Patchouli, Peach
No. 04 of 05
Opens cold and green, eucalyptus and cut rosemary over citrus. The white flowers come next, with iris taking the edge off them. It dries into cedar and moss, still clean, but warmer than it started and much closer to skin.
Opening
Mandarin, Orange, Pink Pepper, Rosemary, Eucalyptus, Green Leaf
Heart
Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Neroli, Iris, Rose, Gardenia
Dry-down
Cedarwood, Amber, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, White Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Oakmoss
No. 05 of 05
Starts aromatic, lavender and clary sage over bergamot, as cool as the air before dark. Saffron and allspice bring the warmth up through it. Underneath is oud and cedar with moss and a soft caramel sweetness, polished more than smoky, the kind of warmth that stays close all evening.
Opening
Bergamot, Lemon, Grapefruit, Pink Pepper, Lavender
Heart
Saffron, Jasmine, Iris, Magnolia, Geranium, Clary Sage, Allspice
Dry-down
Cedarwood, Patchouli, Oud, Vetiver, Amber, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Tonka Bean, Caramel, White Musk
